Anthony Bourdain with Asia Argento
A Meal at Settemio
Rome, Italy
TONY'S SECRET RESTAURANT - Rome
On Sunday December 5, CNN broadcast a stunning Rome episode of Parts Unknown in which Anthony Bourdain and Asia Argento go to a trattoria, which they do not name. It’s Settimio. Sorry for the spoiler but I don’t believe in depriving Mario and Teresa of business through exclusion Watch the episode it is brilliant.
I vividly remember my first visit to Settimio al Pellegrino. It was in 2007 and my friend Jess and I had gotten a hot tip from a regular that a short walk from Campo de’ Fiori sat an uber-authentic trattoria serving simply dressed fresh pastas, meaty mains, and seasonal vegetables. We made a booking but when we showed up for dinner the door was locked. We were already off to a rough start. One of us noticed a button next to the door and after a sustained buzz, chef and owner Teresa opened the door a crack and said something to the effect of “chi siete”, who are you?
If that doesn’t sound like a warm greeting, it wasn’t. But at Settimio, warmth isn’t doled out frivolously. Warmth is earned. If you turn up without a reservation, there’s a real chance you will be sent away, whether they are booked up or not. It’s the kind of place where the possibility of a regular rolling in late leads Teresa and her husband Mario to set aside tables for such an occurrence. And even calling to reserve well in advance doesn’t guarantee a table. On that note, if you don’t speak Italian, have your hotel ring for you. And if all this sounds too fussy, don’t read on. Settimio isn’t for you.
ANTHONY BOURDAIN
PARTS UNKOWN - ROME
I have to be honest: arbitrary seating policies give me agita. I grew up in restaurants and treasure hospitality. I want to connect with the people who make and serve my food, not be rejected or dismissed. Yet I was determined to win over Teresa and Mario. That night, Jess and I ordered every course, including my current go-to, polpette, scorched yet delicious meat patties. We cleaned our plates, admired the eclectic decor (framed posters and paintings gifted by Settimio’s clients, which include plenty of artists and film makers) and watched as Mario worked the room, taking orders and doting on regulars. Teresa emerged from the kitchen occasionally to clear plates and pinch cheeks. Man, did it feel bad being an outsider at Settimio that night.
Jess and I apparently didn’t make much of an impression because I went back on my own a few days later for lunch and was given the same suspicious treatment. After a few more visits, however, I was totally in, cheek caresses and all. This is good news if you live in Rome or visit often. You, too, can become a doted-on regular. Otherwise, visit knowing you won’t be pampered by the service but you’ll definitely walk away having witnessed a Roman relic.
That is to say, a lot of what’s appealing about Settimio is the attitude and atmosphere. Some regulars have been going since the place opened in the 1930s, others a decidedly shorter length, but all are given special attention. In that way, the place is not unique. The attraction to countless other local joints is the experience and the relationship with the owners, even more so than the food.
I don’t think anyone with Roman dining experience would say the food is flawless. Like many places in town, it makes sense to stick to certain things like those meatballs or the onion-rich vitello alla genovese. At Settimio, comfort food reigns: fettucine with meat sauce, gnocchi with tomato sauce (Thursdays only), trippa alla romana, and involtini (meat rolls). The handmade pastas pass muster, but you won’t write home about them. The pillowy, super sweet, candied chestnut-studded Montblanc, which they do not make in house, is another story. I dream about it sometimes. Usually right before I go to the dentist. I am also very into the mela cotta (baked apple). I’m a sucker for overcooked fruit.
Second only to the struggle of winning the owners’ affection is the wines, which range from undrinkable to painfully undrinkable. While it’s charming that regulars leave unfinished bottles in the fridge for their next visit, I can honestly say that the only wine worse than the wine at Settimio is day-old wine at Settimio. It’s not what you’ve come for anyway.
Settimio al Pellegrino
Via del Pellegrino, 117
+390668801978
MACCHERONI con RAGU NAPOLETANO
Ever Had PAMPANELLA ?
It's an Obscure ITALIAN DISH
From an OBSCURE REGION Of ITALY ? "MOLISE" !
Pampanella is a traditional pork dish found in the Molise region of Italy. It is relatively unknown dish elsewhere but much loved in the region. There are countless restaurants and street vendors who offer up the bright red pork in various combinations. Various prime cuts of meat are used from the ribs, loin, butt, shoulder to the belly. The meat is marinated in a generous paprika mixture, made from local varieties of chilli) then slowly roasted.
Like porchetta, pampanella is often served as a sandwich alongside pickles and greens and it's how I first discovered it in Italy. From a wonderful butchers in the beautiful commune of San Martino in Pensilis, Molise - I devoured my sandwich in seconds and was super excited to learn how to make it at home.
Pampanella gets its name from the 'Pampini' leaves (vine/grape leaves) which were traditionally used to wrap the meat for roasting. Nowadays, parchment paper or foil wraps the pork, but the name stuck. It's an amazing dish that emphasises just how diverse and exciting regional Italian food can be. If you're not familiar with Pampanella Molisana, now's the time to make friends!
1. HIRAM'S ... 1345 Palisades Avenue, Fort Lee, NY tel (201) 592-9602
Hiram's, famous for their Hot Dogs, is a classic Jersey Joint. Hiram's was a large part of Tony's childhood, the historical Hiram’s Hot Dog Stand. Hiram’s prides itself on tradition and has rarely changed its menu items and service traditions since 1932, providing a truly nostalgic and comforting environment.
Tony orders two hot dogs, but these are not your ordinary hot dogs; they are “Rippers.” They are deep-fried hot dogs, causing them to tear in the middle of the casing and provide a perfect catalyst for mustard or any other condiment you want to add to its center.
Owner Joe Maggio, whose dad founded Frank's Deli, an Asbury Park institution, in 1960, is still taken aback that Bourdain chose to eat at his modest, no-frills place. “He travels all over the world, and then he comes to Frank’s,” Maggio said.
Bourdain came, as many do, for a classic Jersey sandwich. He sat at table No. 9 and ate sandwich No. 4 — fresh home-baked bread stuffed with an absurdly generous amount of provolone, salami, pepperoni, boiled ham, capicola, shredded lettuce, tomatoes and onions. Plus, Bourdain requested, hot peppers.
"He was very nice, very polite, very cordial," Maggio said — and wore old jeans and a winter jacket. "I think his jeans even had a rip in them."
He continued, "My wife and I are big fans of his. We watch the show all the time. But I can tell you that I wouldn't eat bird's nest soup."
Go: 1406 Main St., Asbury Park; 732-775-6682
FRANK'S DELI
TONY'S FAVORITE - The #4
At Kubel's, Bourdain reminisced with his dining companion, his brother, about the fun times they and their mom and dad spent “down the shore."
"I remember this place with nothing but fondness,” Bourdain told his his brother. “I mean, I can’t remember a single bad memory here.”
And, of course, he remembered the clams he so loved to eat. "No matter where I find them now," he said, "they always bring me back here."
Bourdain ended up feasting on a lot more than clams with his brother. He managed to polish off fried clam strips, clam chowder, steamed garlic clams, lobster mac and cheese, fish and chips, and a few glasses of beer. "I don't know how he did it," a young server marveled.
Martyniak still gets a kick out of telling the story of the snowy morning Bourdain came to check out Kubel's — before opening time — and the bartender, a 19-year-old who had no clue who Bourdain was, politely asked him to "come back in an hour."
Fortunately, Martyniak knew who was at the door — and rushed to let him in.
"He was very nice," Martyniak said. "He entertained the bartender more than the bartender entertained him."
He (Bourdain) took a seat at the bar — "That's where all the action is," Karen said — and breakfasted on scrambled eggs, scrapple, home fries, house-made chili and blueberry pie, made from scratch. And, yes, he ate it all.
By the way, it was the first time that the man who had eaten just about anything — raw sea eyeballs, turkey testicles, cobra heart and warthog anus — ate scrapple, a heavenly mush of pork scraps and trimmings.
1496 Route 539, Warren Grove; 609-698-4474
Bourdain grabbed one of the four rundown stools at the counter, and ate ... What? "I don't remember," said Ruthie, not one to get too impressed by a brush with celebrity — though the episode shows him eating what appears to be eggs, rice and beans. Ruthie did recall, however, that his mouth was going full-speed, gabbing, not eating. “He didn’t eat much,” Ruthie said. “All he did is talk, talk, talk.”
Jose Orgiz, a Camden resident who immigrated from Puerto Rico 52 years ago, would have recommended the cheesesteak sandwich, the fare that brings him there just about every day. "I love it, and I love it here," he said.
Go: 837 N. Eighth St., Camden; 856-964-8193
Cheesesteak is pretty much the only item on the menu at Donkey's — and the family hasn't messed with the recipe in three-quarters of a century.
“We haven’t changed anything in 76 years,” Rob said. “The sandwich is all we do, so we got to do it right.”
What makes Donkey’s cheesesteak — thinly cut steak, sauteed onions and American cheese that Donkey's serves on a poppy-seed Kaiser roll — so darn good? "The onions," Rob said. "We cook them all day,"
Donkey’s sandwich “should be a national landmark,” Bourdain declared, sitting on one of the stools at the bar. “This sandwich is unbelievably good, a thing of beauty."
DONKEY'S PLACE ... 1223 Haddon Ave., Camden; 856-966-2616,
“It was paradise,” Bourdain said about Atlantic City. “American’s first dream vacation, a democratic dream designed in the beginning for everybody.” And the Knife & Fork Inn, the city’s second-oldest restaurant, was there through it all, he noted.
Knife & Fork opened in 1912 originally as a men’s dining and drinking club. Today it is a beloved Atlantic City jewel that is chock full of history and scrumptious food.
LOBSTER THERMIDOR
RUTT'S HUT
Clifton, New Jersey
